tioga Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 I just bought a lot I on EBAY. Most of the gouges are sharpened wrong, with the bevel on the inside of the curve. Is this how it was done in the past? I am not sure I can use them as is, I'll have to reshape and resharpen, I hope the temper of the tool doesn't change. Anyone seen this before? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janel Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 Chris Pye writes about an inside bevel on certain gouges, but that bevel is not a wide one. I think that it is an additional bevel. Can you post a good example image of the tool or tools with the bevel? Janel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marz willis Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 yes ive seen it once, .. to correct it will take a water grinder or a no heat grinder(type of stone wheel) generally white in colour. if its a small bevel id work with it... (you can use them for doing concaves..if its its large..or is it convex... )any rate it relly depends on how much they cost vs. the cost of them. and how much will be left once you have reground them...good luck... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Strom Posted February 8, 2013 Report Share Posted February 8, 2013 These are actually meant to be sharpened this way. They meant to be used the opposite of a regular gouge. They are for carving convex surfaces. Resharpening them can be done but without graet care you could lose the temper. Stave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marz willis Posted February 8, 2013 Report Share Posted February 8, 2013 do you have a picture or make or mark? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tioga Posted February 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2013 I now see these gouges described as incannel gouges. When I use them like regular gouges, they dig into the wood, ruining the work. I suppose they could be for making holes that are round as the chisels radius. The thing is, the one I have is not circular, it's flared like a #6 or #7 regular gouge, that will not make a circular hole, certainly not a perfectly round one. Thanks for your suggestions. Janel, I'll figure out how to post a photo one of these days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janel Posted February 10, 2013 Report Share Posted February 10, 2013 Do a web search engine search for "incannel gouges" and see what comes up. The first thing for me was this forum discussion: http://www.sawmillcr...Incannel-gouges They have specific functions and for certain uses they are very well suited. Not for regular carving I gather. Good luck with learning about them! I'd like to see how they work sometime myself, for small scale work such as I do. More to learn! Janel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tioga Posted February 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 Hers is a photo of the In-cannel chisel. It is on the outside of a bowl I am making, and I have learned how to use it. Thanks for all your help. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janel Posted February 12, 2013 Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 It is good to read that you have learned to use the in-cannel chisel! Janel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Thibeault Posted April 3, 2013 Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 In-cannel gouges were actually pretty common in the old days. One of there biggest uses was in being hammered straight into the wood to set the outline of something like the inside of a curve. If you attempted this with a gouge sharpened in the traditional manner, the gouge pulls away from your mark as wood breaks in the direction of least resistance. When you try the same cut with an in-cannel gouge, the bevel pushes the gouge into your line, against solid wood, which then deflects the force of the cut so that the tools cuts straight down. This type of gouge in invaluable to timber framers and shipwrights, who had to cut round mortices for large pegs. A normal gouge would be incapable of cutting a straight walled channel, since the bevel would keep the cutting edge well away from the wood to be cut. The in-cannel gouge, by contrast, puts the cutting edge directly over the wood that needs to be cut, allowing for channel as deep as the gouge is long. Oh, the long-bladed gouges used by timber framers and shipwrights are called firmer gouges and came in regular and in-cannel bevels: not to be confused with what is being passed off as firmer gouges today with blades (when new) half the length that they use to be. The well used gouges above are noticeably longer than the "catalog photo" brand new one's bellow. The socket blade also made it easier to replace a broken handle (which will happen sooner or later) on the job site. Sorry, I'm all for innovation and modernization, but only if it actually improves something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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